You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve been alone in my car with a clear afternoon ahead of me, and very seriously weighed the pros and cons of driving over three hours to Peabody or Lynn, just outside of Boston, for a real-deal North Shore Beef 3-Way. I’ve never actually made the trip only to satisfy my recurring cravings for this super regional delicacy, but look: I’ve considered it.
If you’ve never had the pleasure, here are the crib notes for what makes this hyper-regional sandwich so special, and why if you’re ever at an otherwise awkward get-together in Boston’s bedroom beach communities, starting up a debate about who is slinging the best Beef 3-Way is a surefire conversation starter, and potential friendship-ender.
What we’ve come to think of as the North Shore Beef 3-Way PROBABLY began in 1951 at Kelly’s Roast Beef, on Revere Beach, long before the restaurant became a chain of warehouse-sized cafeterias. According to the annals of fast food legend, owners Frank McCarthy and Raymond Carey accidentally found themselves with a surfeit of rare roast beef while catering a wedding, which they sliced thin, piled on onion rolls, and served to beachcombers. And while “bright, beating sunshine” and “rare roast beef” don’t usually go hand-in-hand, somehow the combination just worked.
But it wasn’t until Bill & Bob’s Roast Beef entered the fray in the late 60s, that the standardized 3-way was born. Specifically, this combination of rare, still-pink roast beef, white American cheese (placed under the beef for melting), mayonnaise, and James River Barbecue Sauce is ridiculously messy, generally inexpensive relative to the portion, and widely available throughout the beach communities outside of Boston. Kelly’s may have pioneered the sandwich, but Bill & Bob’s solidified the experience.
What’s the deal with that James River BBQ Sauce?
Any Beef Three-Way worth talking about is usually letting this very specific barbecue sauce do a lot of the heavy lifting on the sandwich. It was originally made in Virginia, before somehow finding its way to Massachusetts, where sandwich enthusiasts found it paired perfectly with sliced beef. It’s not like a gloppy Kansas City-style; this stuff is thin, vinegary, very mildly spicy, with just a touch of sweetness, and when you combine it with mayo, melty American, mayo, and the steam from freshly sliced beef, it forms a sort of on-the-fly sauce that’s completely custom, and absolutely gets in your head.
Unlike a lot of regional sandwiches, like the Philadelphia cheesesteak or the Cuban sandwich in Florida, the North Shore Three-Way Beef seems mostly locked to the greater Boston area, and hasn’t garnered a lot of national attention. There are a few standout versions in the Portland area, including George and Leon’s and notably, Roasty’s Premium Roast Beef, which serves not only an outstanding Beef 3-Way, but whose menu also celebrates other regional sandwiches in a sort of “Museum of Meat and Bread.” The trouble is, that if I’m driving to Portland for this sandwich, I may as well push on to Danvers.
What a relief, then, to have Roasty’s performing a Summer residency inside of Main Street Markets, right here in Rockland. In addition to the cheesesteak, Italian beef, and French Dip popularized in other parts of the country, Roasty’s has got the Beef 3-Way just about nailed: Rare roast beef, piled high on an onion roll with Cooper Sharp white American, kewpie mayo, and yes, that James River BBQ that ties the whole thing together. Their version hits all of the spots that inspire obsessive cravings: It’s messy, it’s piping hot, and the beef is cooked perfectly. At $18 bucks, it may not meet the “economical” requirement, but hell, it’s not the 1960s anymore. This is an awful lot of pricey beef piled on a sandwich, and what’s the alternative? Spending a day driving? When I start planning crazy solo missions to other states, it’s good to know that I can pop in here, instead…at least for the Summer.
Roasty’s is available at Main Street Markets Thursday-Sunday, through the month of August. It’s easy to order online, or call ahead for quick pickup.
Roasty’s Residency at Main Street Markets | 435 Main Street, Rockland, Maine | (207) 594-8515 | Order Online
Malcolm is the co-author of “Eating in Maine: At Home, On the Town, and On the Road,” and chef/owner of Honey’s Fried Chicken Palace in Thomaston. He lives in Midcoast Maine and has spent the better part of two decades chasing good meals and even better stories.